Aglianico is a red-grape variety that is widely diffused in Basilicata and in Campania in the provinces of Avellino and Benevento, where it is known by the names of Gnanico, Agliatica, Ellenico, Ellanica and Uva Nera.
It is of extremely ancient origin and some experts argue that it was cultivated in the early period of Roman history and constituted the principal grape in the production of Falernum, a wine that was celebrated by the ancient poets. The variety was introduced to Italy by the Greeks at the time of the foundation of Cumae (the modern Cuma) or soon afterward, while the transformation of the name from Hellenica into Hellanica and then into Aglianico occurred at the end of the 15th century, the period of Aragonese domination over the Kingdom of Naples.
The production zone of the Aglianico del Taburno in the province of Benevento is a district of high hills that is subject to particularly severe winters. However, the Aglianico variety has successfully adapted to such conditions, even at altitudes of 500-600 meters above sea level. The fine and consistent quality of the wine produced in the area enabled local producers to obtain DOC recognition in 1987.
Aversa (DOC)
The vineyards of the province of Aversa, in Campania, offer a sight that is unlike any that can be seen elsewhere in the world: The vines here are "wedded" to poplar trees, on whose trunks they climb to the incredible height of up to 45 feet, thus forming spectacular, green barriers hung with grape bunches. Needless to say, the farmers here are forced to perform acrobatic numbers at harvest time.
But this is only one of the peculiarities that make a unique wine of the matchless Asprinio di Aversa. Italian writer Mario Soldati used to call this wine "the little great wine." "It is so difficult to find a sibling, a cousin, some distant relatives to this wine," he wrote, "There are no whites in the world that are so absolutely dry as the Asprinio. None. It's hard to imagine this unless one has tasted this wine."
Asprinio grapes are grown only at Aversa. It is a zesty, light wine, whose characteristics are even more accentuated in its sparkling version. It is an elegant and exceptionally good wine.
The production area is quite restricted although it extends over the territories of 22 municipalities in the provinces of Caserta and Naples. The grapevines, moreover, have a very low yield because of the way they are grown. This means that in spite of the rising market demand, production cannot be increased. Asprinio di Aversa is thus destined to remain a wine for the few.
ampi Felgrei traces its roots back to Falerno Gaurano, one of the most popular wines of antiquity, highly praised by Pliny the Elder and, in less remote times, a favorite of the rulers of Naples and the Popes of Rome.
This wine is produced near Naples, in an area covering the territories of seven municipal districts. The region is known for its rich, ancient culture, natural resources, and breathtaking scenery, unsurpassed even in other parts of Italy.
The volcanic soil here is the result of successive eruptions. It is tufaceous and rich in ashes, lapilli, pumice and microelements that give a distinctive taste and aroma to the grapes and their wines. Thanks to the particular composition of this soil, it is possible to grow the grapevines using age-old methods abandoned elsewhere in Italy after the great phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century.
Falanghina - an ancient Campanian species of vine used to produce white wines - originates in this same region. It is grown "alla putuelana", or "Pozzuoli-style" - an ancient method whereby the vine was supported by an espalier, called "falange" in Latin.
Red wines here are obtained from the best Campanian grapes, like Piedirosso, known in the local dialect as 'o palummo, and Aglianico. Campi Felgrei is the product of the magical combination of a rich soil, excellent weather, noteworthy species of grape, and the region's great tradition and history of winemaking, low-yield growing methods, and state-of-the-art wineries.
The relatively modern technique of bottle fermentation is also allowed in the production of a noteworthy Spumante Metodo Classico, which is well worth a try. This technique consists in remuage, yeast shocking, dègorgement and resting of the wine with the spent yeast for at least a year.
Capri (DOC)
The winemaking tradition of Campania goes back about three millennia. The rocky slopes of the island of Capri, which have been put into cultivation through the building of innumerable small terraces, provide an extremely favorable habitat for vines and many other plants.
In 29 BC, the Emperor Augustus Caesar, impressed by the beauty of the island, acquired it in exchange for the larger island of Ischia, which he already owned. Between 27 and 37, his successor, the Emperor Tiberius took up residence on Capri, constructing on the island 12 splendid villas dedicated to as many gods of Olympus. And for a decade he governed the Roman Empire from the Villa Jovis.
The wine produced on the island, the Capri, was particularly appreciated by Tiberius, who was nicknamed Biberius (Lush) by his subjects. Over the centuries, the island's inhabitants have continued to tend the vines, planting them even in the ruins of the emperor's villas, so that those who drink the wine today can feel that they are in physical contact with the glorious ancient world.
The wine has long represented one of the island's attractions and its quality was clearly ratified by the granting of the DOC recognition in 1977.
Vinified from grapes of the Falanghina, Greco and Biancolella varieties, the Capri Bianco is recommended with crustaceans and fish prepared in sauces. The Capri Rosso, made for the most part from Piedirosso grapes, is suggested as a wine for the whole meal and especially with roasted white meats and main courses of Neapolitan rustic cuisine.
Castel San Lorenzo (DOC)
Located at the foot of the Matese massif, near Mounts Ebrano and Mutria in the southern province of Salerno, San Lorenzo offers spectacular views. The area boasts age-old olive groves and vineyards and was already famous in the Middle Ages for its wine and oil production. There are traces of human settlement in the area that go back to prehistory, while the ruins of an ancient Roman bridge near the Church of Santa Maria della Strada bear witness to the existence of rural settlements in a later period. The bridge itself belonged to Via Latina, a Roman highway that crossed the region in antiquity. The first historical evidence of San Lorenzo itself can be found in a 14th-century document in which it is described as a hamlet of Limata, a feudal Norman village that has long since disappeared.
Castel San Lorenzo is produced in an area covering seven districts, all part of the province of Salerno. The River Calore is the heart of this hilly, rugged region entirely covered with neat, sun-drenched vineyards. Thanks to its mild weather, the characteristics of its soil, the age-old traditions of its farmers, and the use of low-yield growing methods, San Lorenzo can boast quality wines.
The most important wines produced at San Lorenzo are Barbera and Lambiccato, a sweet wine made with local clones of the Moscato grape. Barbera vines were introduced here a few decades ago with excellent results. Aged in oak barrels, San Lorenzo's Barbera has great structure and character.
Cilento (DOC)
Cilento, an area south of Salerno boasting fantastic natural resources, is one of Italy's most unpolluted. But it is also one of the country's poorest because of its rugged, dry land.
Cilento's current vine species are offsprings of the first vines that were brought to Elea and Paestum by Greek colonizers in antiquity. The soil here is rich in clay and lime, allowing the local vine species to fully exploit the temperate climate. Sante Lacerio, the cupbearer of Pope Paul III, claimed that Cilento wine was "delicate enough to be drunk in the great heat" of southern Italy and "unsurpassed at the dinner table."
Grown in arid, hard-to-till land, the vines do not have a high yield but the wine obtained from their grapes is excellent and provides the perfect match for the region's simple yet tasty dishes.
Costa d'Amalfi (DOC)
This area extends over the territories of 13 districts in the province of Salerno. It boasts an exceptionally beautiful landscape with characteristic bold terraces, often in narrow gorges or towering above the coastline and accessible only by steep, winding stairs. Every single terrace here has been stolen away from the cliffs by man, who has constructed stone walls and hand-carried the soil for the vineyards.
These fantastic tiers of vineyards and lemon groves, where the scent of the citrus blends with the smell of the sea, produce grapes that convey their distinctive taste and aroma to the wines of the Amalfi Coast.
There are three subcategories of D.O.C. wine appellations in this area, called after the districts where the vines grow: Furore, Ravello, and Tramonti. The grapes used in the production of these wines are strictly traditional. No concessions are made to fashion statements; no exceptions allowed. Red wines are mainly obtained from Piedirosso, Sciascinoso and Aglianico varieties, with a spare use of local grapes like San Nicola, Ginestra, Pepella, Biancazita or Bincatenera that give a distinctive character to the wines.
Falerno del Massico (DOC)
To other wine enjoys such a privileged place in mythology, enological and otherwise, as Falerno. For centuries, its name was inseparably linked with that of Bacchus and was used interchangeably in reference to the wine itself or to its patron diety.
Legend has it that Bacchus appeared in mortal form to an old farmer, named Falernus, who lived on the slopes of Mount Massico. Despite the god's rather scruffy appearance, which he had purposely assumed, the farmer welcomed him and offered him all that he had-milk, honey and fruit. Moved, Bacchus rewarded such hospitality by transforming the milk into a wine that Falernus drank, falling to sleep immediately afterward. And at that moment, Bacchus converted the slopes of Mount Massico into a vast vineyard, launching a tradition that few other wines can begin to match.
Falernum or Falerno was praised and recommended by all the poets of classical Rome, while the historians reported that the wine was invariably found on the banquet tables of the emperors as well as among the provisions that were taken along by armies and generals in the great wars of conquest waged by ancient Rome.
With the decline of the Empire in the West, references to the wine tapered off. However, it was still repeatedly cited in its moments of splendor, although they were transitory, throughout the history of the Kingdom of Naples.
Revival of the production of the wine coincided with the arrival of the Bourbons in Naples and with the imposing work of reclaiming land and relaunching agriculture throughout Campania. Inexplicably, however, extremely few growers had the capacity to profit commercially from the aura of fascination surrounding the wine that was created by its history and mythology. Only in quite recent times have the producers come to realize what a valuable asset the wine's image represents. That realization led first to a decisive improvement in the wine's quality and then to the granting of the DOC recognition.
Fiano di Avellino (Apianum) (DOC)
Irpinia has played such an important role in Campanian wine production that the rail line linking Avellino and Rocchetta Sant'Antonio was known as "the Wine Line." Completely planted in vines, the province of Avellino features products of international reputation, such as Greco di Tufo, Taurasi and Fiano. The Fiano di Avellino takes its name from the variety that the Latins called Vitis Apiana. That was because the vine's grapes were so sweet that they proved irresistible to bees ("api").
The wine, which was already highly appreciated in the Middle Ages, originated several millennia ago. An order for three "salme" (a measure) of Fiano is entered in the register of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II. And Charles d'Anjou must have enjoyed the wine, since he had 16,000 Fiano vines planted in the royal vineyards.
The grapes' sugar content is so high that a virtually sweet sparkling wine is made in the area that has many local admirers, although it has not been possible to market it nationally and internationally. Years of experiment have enabled winemakers to produce a dry Fiano, a wine of great elegance and refinement with an intense odor and a harmonious flavor that features scents of toasted hazelnuts. Perfect as an aperitif, the wine also makes a fine accompaniment for refined dishes based on seafood.
Galluccio (DOC)
Galluccio is produced in five districts around the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina to the south-east of Naples. Lava deposits, rich in microelements and potassium, make the soil here is highly suitable for the cultivation of grapevines and give the grapes an intense, fine aroma.
In order to exalt this characteristic aroma, the production of Galluccio is subject to strict rules and rigorous quality control. Only highly acclaimed, indigenous grapes - Aglianico for reds and rosés and Falanghina for whites - are in fact allowed. The quantity of grapes produced is also subject to strict regulations with a yield of only 9,680 lbs. per acre allowed for reds and rosZ&Mac255;s and 10,560 lbs. for whites.
Galluccio Riserva - a full-bodied red with a great bouquet that is at its best after at least two years of aging in barrels - is the best evidence of the great potential of these wines.
Greco di Tufo (DOC)
Without doubt, the Greco di Tufo, from which the wine of the same name is made, is the oldest variety of the Avellino area. It was imported from the Greek region of Thessaly by the Pelasgian peoples. A confirmation of the millennial origin of the wine is provided by the discovery of a fresco at Pompeii, traced in the 1st century BC. A brief poetical inscription was added to the fresco, apparently by a frustrated lover: "You are truly cold, Bytis, made of ice, if last night not even Greco wine could warm you up."
Among many legends concerning wine, the province of Avellino can even boast of one miracle involving the beverage. According to the story, San Guglielmo of Vercelli emulated the miracle of the Marriage of Cana in turning water to wine at Bonito.
The Greco variety was originally cultivated on the slopes of Vesuvius, where it was given the name Lacryma Christi. It was later planted in the province of Avellino, where it was given the denomination Greco di Tufo.
The refined personality of the wine is in sharp contrast with the wild nature of the Irpinia, where it is made. It is an expression of the natural gentleness of the inhabitants of the district, who have made it, through their dedication and with all simplicity, one of the leading centers of Italian winemaking.
Guardia Sanframondi or Guardiolo (DOC)
Guardia Sanframondi is a beautiful, small medieval town to the east of Naples, in the province of Benevento, with a typical medieval layout, well-preserved buildings and narrow, picturesque alleys.
The Guardia Sanframondi D.O.C. wines are produced in a restricted area that includes four municipalities in Valle Telesina, all of which boast a very high concentration of vineyards. In spite of the age-old appearance of this land, the winegrowers here avail of state-of-the-art methods and cellars. The technologically advanced local winegrowers' cooperative has around one thousand members as well as many winemaking experts who put their expertise at the disposal of the producers.
The wines produced here are all, with a just one exception, traditional wines obtained from grapes that have been grown in this land since times immemorial: Aglianico, Sangiovese, Falanghina, and Malvasia Bianca di Candia. The exception mentioned above is a very interesting sparkling wine obtained from versatile Falanghina grapes. This sparkling wine, which is made using the most up-to-date methods, has a triumphant, assertive personality.
Ischia (DOC)
The island's winemakers emphasize their production of white wines, the Ischia and Ischia Superiore, which superbly match the seafood caught in the surrounding waters, but they also turn out a lively and satisfyingly tannic red wine.
The wine of Ischia was already well known in the 16th century and, according to Andrea Bacci, a writer and enologist, "it has an extremely gentle taste with a rich nature that makes it satisfying to the stomach and corroborating. It is quite digestible and nutritious without causing disturbance or weakness to the body."
The winemaking tradition on the island has been maintained throughout the centuries despite some formidable setbacks. In 1453, the "Assassin-King," Alfonso of Aragon, had all the men of the island taken into custody without explanation. They were carried off in the night abroad 24 ships and were never heard of again. The "widows" were married to 1,418 Spaniards from Catalonia, who were brought to the island for the purpose. In addition to wives, they received as gifts gardens and the vineyards from which the famous wines are obtained. Since then, the methods of tending the vines and making the wines have changed little. In 1880, the efforts of the mayor of Ischia, Alfonso Perazzo, led to the initiation of exports of the island's wines. And the exceptional richness of their aromas has won them an important place on the world's markets.
Penisola Sorrentina (DOC)
The peninsula of Sorrento, a place of great beauty whose temperate climate and rugged coastline have long attracted travelers from all over the world, boasts three subcategories of wine appellations: Lettere, Gragnano and Sorrento.
Pliny, Galen, and Strabo have sung the praises of these wines. Sante Lacerio, cupbearer of Pope Paul III, recounts that the pontiff liked drinking Sorrento wine on warm summer evenings. Sorrento wine, he said, was excellent to quench one's thirst and was a "true gentleman's wine," he claimed with good reason. Lettere and Gragnano, on the other hand, were the favorites of Italian author Mario Soldati. "Lettere is a small village of four or five houses scattered above Gragnano.... It is also a literary wine; literary in the sense that it is unreal.... An Alpine, rupicolous, pastoral landscape and, at once, very thick vegetation. Minute valleys, rises, pre-Romanesque hillocks. And, between the vineyards, ilexes, walnuts and chestnuts hanging over the plain of Pompeii, within sight of Castellammare di Stabia and the Bay of Naples, the distant islands and the Vesuvius. Finally, the Gragnano.... a small, but truly unbeatable wine. Dark, deep ruby red; a vinous, rural taste; slightly sparkly, even frothy when young - a froth that goes flat quickly and disappears forever.... and with a smoky bouquet, a very pleasant aftertaste similar to the infinitely more volatile smoky aftertaste of malt whiskey. In spite of its color, it had to be drunk cold, at cellar, rather than room, temperature."
Although confined for a long time to a low segment of the market, this little, great wine - known as the traditional wine of genuine Neapolitan households - has been brought back to its past glory thanks to the efforts of a few winemakers and has been given the D.O.C. appellation. It is now the darling of many demanding wine lovers.
Sannio (DOC)
The area where this wine is produced extends to the whole territory of ancient Samnium (Sannio in Italian), the land of the Samnites - a pre-Roman people of great history and tradition. This is a hilly area in the heart of Campania where the best land has always been used for growing grapevines. The climatic conditions here are ideal for the ripening of grapes. Pliny, Columella, Cato and Horace have written on the excellence of the wines produced in Samnium, some of which they praised for the "slightly smoky aroma" and others, for the "intense resinous scent."
Nowadays, contemporary Samnite winegrowers skillfully produce high quality grapes, which are then transformed into great wines in state-of-the-art wineries. To preserve the quality of the wines, only grapes from the best lands, and not those grown in the humid vineyards located in valley floors, can be used in their production. Strict rules also govern the intensity of cultivation and discourage straining methods.
Honoring the region's ancient winemaking tradition, the D.O.C. regulations for the Sannio leave ample room for the production of wines obtained from the historical grapevines of Samnium - Aglianico, Coda di Volpe, Falanghina, Fiano, Greco, Moscato, Piedirosso, and Sciascinoso - but they also allow the production of a modern wine using a blend of two ancient local grape varieties - Greco and Falanghina - that are vinified through the relatively recent technique of second fermentation in the bottle - with remuage, dégorgement, and the resting of the wine in the spent yeast for at least a year. The result is a Spumante Metodo Classico of great character that deserves to be tasted.
Sant'Agata dei Goti (DOC)
This wine is the product of a perfect combination of a centuries-old tradition of winemaking, of particularly suitable conditions for winegrowing offered by perfectly positioned vineyards, of the rational techniques adopted in transforming the grapes into wine, and of the great attention paid to choice local grape varieties, which are vinified separately.
This is how the first Falanghina, the most traditional of Sant'Agata dei Goti D.O.C. wines, is produced. It has long been the darling of refined consumers thanks to its delicate taste, distinct bouquet, and unique personality. Greco, among the whites, and Aglianico and Piedirosso, among the reds, are also very elegant wines.
The uniqueness of these products is further guaranteed by a strict delimitation of the area where they can be produced, which includes a few acres of vineyards situated on the hills of Sant'Agata dei Goti - Saticula of the ancients - to the east of Naples and not far from ancient Pompeii and Caserta.
In the heart of this beautifully positioned fortified medieval village, which towers over two affluents of the River Isclero, and among its treasures of art and monuments, there can be found ancient cellars dug into the tufaceous rocks and equipped with modern devices. These dark, silent cellars provide steady temperatures ideal for the extraction of the best must, the ageing of the wines in perfect conditions, and the preservation of the intense varietal bouquet.
Solopaca (DOC)
Many peoples settled in Campania, beginning in the Bronze Age with the arrival of Mycenaean peoples in the 14th century BC. The Etruscans and Greeks arrived a few centuries later to find that the inhabitants were already well versed in the arts of growing grapes and making wines. According to some historians, the Etruscans and Greeks did not in fact introduce the cultivation of vines in Campania but only made various improvements in existing methods.
Many varied citations concerning the quality of the wines have survived in Roman literature. For over the course of many centuries, the wines of Campania were steadily transported to Rome to grace the tables of senators and nobles. In the period between the collapse of the Roman Empire in the West and the Middle Ages, the wines continued to occupy an important place in Italian agriculture and, after another, less happy, time, they were restored to their ancient splendor in the 10th century.
Despite numerous developments and changes over the course of many centuries, Campania still produces wines of excellent quality that deserve to be better known on both domestic and foreign markets. Of all the Campanian provinces, Benevento is the largest wine producer, although few historical accounts of the activity have survived.
The vineyards that yield the Solopaca wines are situated on hills that rise along the banks of the river Calore in the final stages of its course.
Solopaca bianco is made for the most part from Trebbiano with the addition of Falanghina, Coda di Volpe and Malvasia di Candia grapes and it has a generous, soft and balanced flavor that ranges from dry to extremely dry. It combines best with cream of vegetable soups, vegetables in general and, of course, with seafood. The Solopaca rosso, consisting primarily of Sangiovese, Aglianico and Piedirosso, is recommended with piquant dishes and the typical cuisine of the zone. The wine can be drunk with pleasure immediately after it is bottled but it improves with aging.
Taburno (DOC)
This quality wine is produced in the territories of 13 municipal districts at the foot of Mount Taburno, in Campania, dotted with vineyards and olive groves. Taburno is the fruit of favorable climatic conditions and the know-how and experience of the area's skilled winegrowers, who are the best allies of the local grape varieties, especially Aglianico and Falanghina.
Until a few decades ago, it was hard to find traces of the glorious past of the local wines here. The local winegrowers' cooperative should be given full credit for having wisely brought together its 400 members in an operation aimed at reviving the great tradition of winemaking in this area through the careful selection of the grapes: the first step in obtaining wines of great quality and distinction.
A growing number of individual producers is involved today in this true renaissance of Taburno wines, as well as in the experimentations with new production techniques.
This quality wine is produced in the territories of 13 municipal districts at the foot of Mount Taburno, in Campania, dotted with vineyards and olive groves. Taburno is the fruit of favorable climatic conditions and the know-how and experience of the area's skilled winegrowers, who are the best allies of the local grape varieties, especially Aglianico and Falanghina.
Until a few decades ago, it was hard to find traces of the glorious past of the local wines here. The local winegrowers' cooperative should be given full credit for having wisely brought together its 400 members in an operation aimed at reviving the great tradition of winemaking in this area through the careful selection of the grapes: the first step in obtaining wines of great quality and distinction.
A growing number of individual producers is involved today in this true renaissance of Taburno wines, as well as in the experimentations with new production techniques.
Taurasi (DOCG)
The Avellino area, which is extensively planted in vines, produces excellent wines and its makers have effectively promoted them, including Taurasi, which has acquired an international reputation.
Dominated by an ancient Longobard castle that was enlarged by the Normans, the community of Taurasi is the center of the production of the red wine of the same name. Taurasi is of extremely ancient origin. It is a wine of great body and structure, dry and austere, with an aromatic vein. The wine must be aged for three years, of which one in chestnut or oak casks. In the three succeeding years, the wine can be tasted in the fullness of its quality and is particularly good as an accompaniment to roasted red meats.
The variety from which it is made, Aglianico, was introduced by Hellenic peoples around the time of the foundation of Cumae (Cuma). The variety is found in virtually the whole of southern Italy but the wines produced from it are considerably different, depending upon the places where the vines grow. However, Campania is clearly one of its best habitats. Aglianico has a cluster of medium size that is cylindrical-conical in shape. The grapes are round and blue in color.
Vesuvio (DOC)
Viticulture was introduced into Campania by Hellenic peoples more than 3,000 years ago. Many peoples settled in Campania, beginning in the Bronze Age with the arrival of Mycenaean colonists in the 14th century BC. The Etruscans and Greeks arrived a few centuries later to find that the inhabitants were already well versed in the arts of growing grapes and making wines. According to some historians, the Etruscans and Greeks did not in fact introduce the cultivation of vines in Campania but only made various improvements in existing methods.
The area's mild climate has always favored the growth of the vine, which is an extremely adaptable plant that succeeds in bearing well even in terrains of volcanic origin. Piedirosso or Piede di Colombo is one of the most widely cultivated varieties in Campania and it and Sciascinoso are used in the making of Vesuvio Rosso and Rosato.
Vesuvio Rosso is ruby red in color and has a vinous odor and a dry flavor, which makes it a wine for consumption throughout a meal, which is also true of the Vesuvio Rosato, which has a less intense odor and a harmonious flavor.
Vesuvio Bianco is made from the Coda di Volpe variety, which was derived from the ancient Roman vines of Campania Felix (Happy Campania). It has a large cluster, which is curved at the tip so that it somewhat resembles a fox's tail. And that resemblance accounts for the variety's name. The wine's freshness and fragrance is best appreciated when it is dry and when it is drunk in the first year after production.
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