Naples [1] in Italy, is the capital of the Campania region. The city is the third most populated municipality (city proper) of Italy, but the second metropolitan area, after Milan. It was founded between the 7th and 6th centuries BC by the Greeks and was named Neapolis, which means new city. Because of its vast artistic heritage, the historic centre of Naples has earned the UNESCO World Heritage Site denomination. Its territory, particularly the iconic sight of the gulf of Naples (but also Mount Vesuvius, the music, etc. ) is recognized abroad as on of the most powerful symbolic images of Italy. However, many Neapolitans do reject such stereotypical portrayal.
Get in
By plane
Naples is served by Naples Airport, also known as Capodichino Airport (IATA: NAP) [2]. It’s well organized and connected to the Center of the City with public transportation.
From the airport you can take a bus for Ä3 (called Alibus: [3]) which has two stops only: Stazione Centrale (Central station) and Piazza Municipio, near the main ferry port (molo Beverello). You can buy your ticket on the bus. Further connections are listed on this page of the official website of the airport: [4]
If you have time to spare, you can take the 3S bus that will take you to the same stops as the Alibus for a cheaper price. The difference is that the Alibus has limited stops but the 3S will take you to the backstreets leading to the Stazione continuing all the way to the port and a shopping district. Also, the Alibus is airconditioned whereas most 3S buses are not.
Beware of illegal, unauthorized taxis and of anyone who may approach you directly. Authorized taxis are clearly visible at the exit; fixed fares exist for a number of destinations, and must be clearly shown in the cab. Make sure they are before getting on the cab and threaten to call the police (“polizia”) should the taxi driver try to push back.
By train
The main station is Napoli Centrale – Piazza Garibaldi Station, connected to the Naples subway system. The bus R3 from the Piazza Garibaldi in front of the train station will take you within three blocks of the ferries at Stazione Marittima. Other stations include Mergellina, a magnificent Art DÈco building and Campi Flegrei.
By boat
Cruise ships dock at Stazione Marittima, a large terminal located right in the city center, near Piazza Municipio.
- Tirrenia Navigazione [6] operates an overnight ferry service that has two separate routes, one to Sardinia (Cagliari) and the other to Sicily (Palermo).
By car
Naples is directly connected with Rome by the A1 highway, and the trip takes generally less than 2 hours. Due to traffic jam and parking shortage in city center, it’s advisable to leave your car in a parking lot near the motorway exit or your accommodation, and to use public transportation
By bus
Many national and international private bus services operate in Naples, generally stopping at Piazza Garibaldi or Piazza Municipio.
Get around
Be forewarned: Traffic in Naples is nuts. It is the place where the social order breaks down and it is every man for himself (the traffic lights are usually ignored). You will find cars double and triple parked. Cars going the wrong way down one way streets. Traffic around the train station is nuts. Before attempting to cross the street, observe the locals. The idea is to spot a gap in the traffic and start across and hopefully people will stop. If this fails look for a pretty girl or a mother with young kids and let them run interference for you. Good luck!
There are several ways to see Naples and the surrounding area. These include by taxi, train/subway, bus.
Taxis are the quickest way to see Naples, but also the most expensive. Before getting into a taxi, make sure it is licensed. Licensed taxis will have a city crest on the door and a taxi number. Also, make sure it has a meter. By law, licensed taxis must display a list of pre-agreed fares in a number of languages (Italian, English, French, German, Spanish). Check the presence of such fares and agree to them before starting the journey.
By public transportation on land
It is fairly difficult to get a clear picture of the public transportation system in Naples, since different lines are operated by different companies. Nonetheless, one can buy a daily pass for three Euro valid on all vehicles. With an Ä1 ticket, instead, you can travel for 90 minutes on as many lines as you want (Bus, subway, funicolare).
- Metropolitana di Napoli [7]. There are six lines of underground subway in Naples. They are generally safer than the other public transports, because they are always monitored by cameras and security officers. The most important:
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- Linea 1, built recently, connects the city center to the hill quarters, like Vomero and the hospitals area. Avoid passing through Piscinola and Secondigliano as those areas can be very dodgy and dangerous.
- Linea 2, much older, connects the three main train stations to Pozzuoli. The tracks are shared with the ordinary railway
- Linea 6, a new light subway connecting Fuorigrotta to Mergellina.
- Funicolare[8]. The subway company also operates four cable cars: three of them connect the city center to Vomero, the last connect Mergellina to Posillipo.
- Trams [9]. ANM operates two tram lines (1 and 4), of which one goes along the shore of Santa Lucia – Castelnuovo – Garibaldi (Central Station).
- Buses [10]. ANM also operated all bus lines within Naples, most of which are circular. Naples suffers from a serious problem of traffic jam and usually buses are overcrowded, so if you can (unless in the evening or on the weekend) try to avoid them.
There are three different regional train services that operate in Naples and the surrounding areas. They are listed here:
- Circumvesuviana. The Circumvesuviana railline operates out of the basement of the main train station at Piazza Garibaldi and has different routes that service the local Naples area. One route goes from the train station to Sorrento with several stops in between, including Pompei Scavi and Ercolano. A second route travels around Vesuvius. Other routes go to Acerra and Nola-Baiano. The Circumvesuviana website [11] has more information on timings, routes and cost of tickets.
- Cumana. This railline that operates from Montesanto in Naples and follows the coastline for approximately 20 km before ending in Torregaveta (Bacoli). The Cumana runs the urban centres of Montesanto, Fuorigrotta, Bagnoli, Pozzuoli, Arco Felice, Baia, Fusaro before reaching Torregaveta.
- Circumflegrea. This railline also starts in Montesanto and ends in Torregaveta. However, it runs along the western edge of Naples through the districts Soccavo, Pianurat, Quarto Flegreo, Licola and Cuma. It also approximately seven kilometres alonger than the Cumana. because the Cumana and Circumflegra start and end in the same places one can quickly transfer from one train to the other. Both services are owned and operated by the same company and more information can be found at the S.E.P.S.A website [12].
- Regional Trains. In Addition to the aforementioned trains, Trenitalia operates regional trains from Naples to Salerno.
By ferry/hydrofoil
There are several ferry/hydrofoil services that connect Naples and local ports/islands. Ferry and hydrofoil services leave from either Molo Beverello, Mergellina or Pozzuoli. Some then of them are listed here:
- Metro del Mare [13] has several lines that connect Naples and Sapri; Bacoli and Salerno and Sorrento; Monti di Procida and Salerno; and, Amalfi and Sapri. Besides the main stops the ferry service also connects many smaller communities. The Metro di Mare webpage has schedules, timetables and location of ticket counters.
- L.N.G. [14] has a hydrofoil service that connects Naples with the island of Capri, along with Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi. Schedules and timings can be found on its website.
- AliLauro [15] has a hydrofoil service that connects Naples with the islands of Ponza, Ventotene, Prochida, Ischia, Capri and Eolie, and the towns of Formia, Castellamare, Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Salerno. Alilauro operates from both the Molo Beverello and Mergelina.
- L.N.P. [16] operates both hydrofoil and boats lines. It connects Naples with Sorrento and has other lines connecting Capri, Sorrento, Castellamare, Salerno, AMalfi and Positano. Schedule and timings can be downloaded from the L.N.P. website.
Wath to See
Some may find the conditions of many buildings and streets, and the rampant graffiti, off-putting. Others claim this is “the immense character and culture of Napoli…and even the dirt and grime has its own flavor…a Neapolitan recipe for reality, and great fun”. Just do not expect the pristine conditions of many other major European cities.
Most sites in Campania (including Pompeii) accept the Campania Card for tourists (free entry). Some cards also include a pass for the local public transportation.
- Castel dell’Ovo at Porto Santa Lucia Naples’ known port with the Egg Castle on a small peninsula. The castle currently houses the Museum of Prehistory.
- Castelnuovo (Maschio Angioino) A huge medieval castle at the shore which houses the main city museum featuring various collections, but most importantly a picture gallery (with focus on 19th Century Italian painting).
- Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte [17]- Napolitan National Gallery, a must-see! Displays the Burgia, Farnese and Borbon collections with mainly Renaissance and Baroque Italian painting. Among the famous artists on display: Tizian, Giovanni Bellini, Annibale Caracci, de Ribera and Giordano. A beautiful park surrounds the museum.
- Museo Archeologico Nazionale [18]- Naples Archeological Museum houses wall paintings and different objects removed from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and other excavation sites in the area. In addition, you can admire the Farnese collection of Roman sculptures (including the famous sculptures of the Caracala Baths). E9.00 for admission. European citizens pay Ä 6.5, children get in for free. There is also an audio guide available talking about the statue collection on the first floor, however most of the amazing artifacts such as original Roman murals of mostly Greek mythologies are not covered. All descriptions of the exhibits are in English and in Italian.
- View of Margellina (from via Orazio or via Petrarca)
- Certosa di San Martino A Carthusian monastery at the top of a hill near the city centre. It houses the Museum of City History.
- Parco Virgiliano A nice park with a stunning view of the surrounding area. It is about half an hour off the city centre, but certainly worth the effort! Not to be confused with the Park in which Virgil’s Tomb is found.
- Piazza del Ges? and Piazza S.Domenico Maggiore The New Jesuite Church is among the most extravagant Baroque churches in the world! Across the street you will find the Santa Chiara Monastery [19]. It is worth a visit for its beautiful garden decorated with frescos and coulorful columns. If you continue towards S. Domenico Square you will pass by the St Angelo on the Nile Church with its Donatello’s altar. The Sansevero Chapel nearby is also well known for its marble sculptures of veiled figures.
- Napoli Sotterranea [20] Underneath San Lorenzo Maggiore medieval church.You can witness the remains of the Roman city. The tunnels served as shelters during WWII.
- Castel Capuano
- Castel Sant’Elmo
- Catacombe di San Gennaro Medievil catacombs on Capodimonte hill.
- Quadreria dei Girolamini [21] A beautiful small picture gallery mainly of Italian Baroque painting and some works of famous De Ribera. Free of charge and just across the street from the Duomo.
- Duomo [22] Naples’ main church with two luxurious chapels. Underneath it you can find excavation of a Roman site. Near the duomo you can find the St. Gennaro Treasury Museum, with arts exhibits from the duomo and another heavily frescoed chappel.
- Pio Monte della Misericordia [23] A church and a picture gallery both belonging to an old charity organisation. The gallery mainly displays Napolitan Baroque paintings.
- Teatro San Carlo [24] Naples’ famous opera house.
- Piazza del Plebiscito Naples’ main square. Surrounding it you will find the Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale – open to tourists), the San Carlo Theatre and the Galleria Umberto.
- Acquario – Villa Comunale A park near the shore with Europe’s first public aquarium in its centre. Nearby is the Cortes Museum of Applied Arts. La Casina Pompeiana in the park is home to changing exhibitions focusing on photography.
- Galleria Umberto A shopping passage from the 19th Century.
- Villa Floridiana [25] Seat of Duca di Martina Museum of Ceramics and Marchese di Civitanova Museum of Carriages.
- Museo Civico Filanghieri [26] Used to be a private collection mainly of applied arts.
- Citta’ della Scienza [27]
- Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donna Regina [28]
- Pinacoteca della Accademia di Belle Arte [29] Mainly features 19th Century Italian painting.
- PAN – Palazzo delle Arti di Napoli [30] Contemporary art.
- Raccolta Mura – Museum of the Napolitan Song
- Museo del Mare (Naval Museum) [31]
- Fondazione Pagliara
- Piomonte di Pieta’ in Palazzo Carafa A Manierist church and a picture gallery. Open only on weekends.
- Textil and Clothing Museum Elena Aldorandini
- Museum of Music History at the San Pietro a Maiella Conservatory. Exhibits important manuscripts of the Scarlatti family.
- Grotta di Seiano An artificial cave underneath Posillipo. It leads to an ancient Greek theatre.
Tours
- Shore trip naples, (info@italylimousine.com). An organization that arranges personalised tours to Vesuvius, Pompeii, Amalfi coast, Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, Sorrento etc led by experience driver/guides. [32]
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